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6: Water Waves

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    47251
    • Franz S. Hover and Michael S. Triantafyllou
    • Massachusetts Institute of Technology via MIT OpenCourseWare

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    • 6.1: Constitutive and Governing Relations
      Surface waves in water are a superb example of a stationary and ergodic random process. The model of waves as a nearly linear superposition of harmonic components, at random phase, is confirmed by measurements at sea, as well as by the linear theory of waves, the subject of this section.
    • 6.2: Rotation and Viscous Effects
      Rotation of a fluid and how it differs from rotation of a solid. Applying the Reynolds number to describe inertial and viscous forces in ocean-scale waves.
    • 6.3: Velocity Potential
      Converting the force-balance equation to the Bernoulli equation, using the velocity potential function.
    • 6.4: Linear Waves
      Applying Bernoulli's equation to prove that waves near the surface of the ocean follow a linear wave model.
    • 6.5: Deepwater Waves
      The changes that occur in the equations describing water waves as their depth below the ocean's surface increases.
    • 6.6: Wave Loading of Stationary and Moving Bodies
      Categorizing the forces experienced by a structure under wave load, assuming that these waves can be well modelled by linear wave theory. Discussion of the equations used to calculate these forces.
    • 6.7: Limits of the Linear Theory
      Real-world factors that reduce the accuracy of the linear wave model as applied to ocean waves.
    • 6.8: Characteristics of Real Ocean Waves
      Weibull and Rayleigh distribution functions as a technique for modeling real-world data sets on ocean waves.

    This page titled 6: Water Waves was last modified on Fri, 23 Apr 2021 05:53:02 GMT and is shared under a CC BY-NC-SA 4.0 license and was authored, remixed, and/or curated by Franz S. Hover and Michael S. Triantafyllou (MIT OpenCourseWare) via source content that was edited to the style and standards of the LibreTexts platform.