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6: Water Waves

Last updated

Apr 23, 2021
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- 5.7: The 100-Year Wave - Estimate from Short-Term Statistics
- 6.1: Constitutive and Governing Relations

Franz S. Hover & Michael S. Triantafyllou
Massachusetts Institute of Technology via MIT OpenCourseWare

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6.1: Constitutive and Governing Relations
Surface waves in water are a superb example of a stationary and ergodic random process. The model of waves as a nearly linear superposition of harmonic components, at random phase, is confirmed by measurements at sea, as well as by the linear theory of waves, the subject of this section.
6.2: Rotation and Viscous Effects
Rotation of a fluid and how it differs from rotation of a solid. Applying the Reynolds number to describe inertial and viscous forces in ocean-scale waves.
6.3: Velocity Potential
Converting the force-balance equation to the Bernoulli equation, using the velocity potential function.
6.4: Linear Waves
Applying Bernoulli's equation to prove that waves near the surface of the ocean follow a linear wave model.
6.5: Deepwater Waves
The changes that occur in the equations describing water waves as their depth below the ocean's surface increases.
6.6: Wave Loading of Stationary and Moving Bodies
Categorizing the forces experienced by a structure under wave load, assuming that these waves can be well modelled by linear wave theory. Discussion of the equations used to calculate these forces.
6.7: Limits of the Linear Theory
Real-world factors that reduce the accuracy of the linear wave model as applied to ocean waves.
6.8: Characteristics of Real Ocean Waves
Weibull and Rayleigh distribution functions as a technique for modeling real-world data sets on ocean waves.

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